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Biscuits: Catheads, Angels, and Cream"If there's any doubt in your mind that hot, light fluffy biscuits are important in the South, just remember that a duel was once fought between two families over ...their biscuit recipes." - Joni Miller, from her book, True Grits. It's true. Our Scotch-Irish ancestry gave us something more important than apple pie to provide that satisfyingly down-home delicious, daily sustenance; biscuits. Folks swear by their mama's recipe and are quick to defend it to all challengers. I actually recall a conversation which took place on our front porch in the 1950's. Our neighbor, Roy McMillan, was doing considerable bragging on his new daughter-in-law and her command of the country culinary arts. In closing, he lifted his face to the heavens and solemnly proclaimed "but she can't make biscuits." Big biscuits have caught on with the fast food chains such as Hardee's and Mrs. Winner's but they don't use the name common to most of the Appalachia; Cathead biscuits. Mama didn't think much of catheads since the dough was pinched off and not rolled out. Also, they were "ugly in shape" and had too much dough in ratio to crust. And crust is another deep chasm among biscuit eaters. Our family prided itself on biscuits that were not too thick but had a rich, crisp, buttery crust. In my case, I disposed of the "insides" and ate only the crusts. Friends tell me that the catheads evolved to accommodate those folk who served a lot of sawmill gravy and other types of meat in milk gravies. Cathead Biscuits 2 and 1 fourth cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 half teaspoon baking soda 6 tablespoons lard 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup buttermilk Sift all dry ingredients together then blend in the lard. Add buttermilk and stir to incorporate all ingredients. Pinch off portions of dough slightly larger than an egg, lightly shape with hands and place on greased cookie sheet about one inch apart. Bake in preheated hot oven set at about 450 to 475. Angel biscuits are small buttery biscuits with the distinctive aroma of yeast. That's because yeast is added and the dough is allowed to rise before baking. I have successfully used this recipe as a companion to thinly sliced Smithfield ham at receptions and holiday socials from Washington, DC to Mexico City. Yes, they do take a little more time but the effort is well worth it. Angel Biscuits 4 tablespoons sugar 4 cups self rising flour 1 packet of yeast 2 tablespoons warm water 1 half teaspoon baking soda 1 cup Crisco 1 and one half cup buttermilk (at room temperature) Dissolve sugar and yeast in warm water. Combine flour and soda and cut in shortening. Add yeast mixture and buttermilk. Knead for two to three minutes. Roll out on floured surface and cut into biscuits. Place on lightly greased pans, cover with cloth and let rise before baking in a preheated oven at 400 degrees. Cream biscuits are made with butter and cream. Mama rolled hers out fairly thin so that they would have more crust than dough but you can adjust the thickness to your own taste. Cream Biscuits 1 and 3 fourths cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 half teaspoon baking soda 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 fourths to 1 cup heavy cream Sift flour, salt, sugar, soda and baking powder together. Cut butter into flour mixture as though you were making a pie crust. Stir cream into mixture until just mixed. Dough will be sticky. Turn out onto board dusted with self rising flour and knead lightly. Roll out to about 1 half to 3 fourths inch thickness. Place on lightly oiled cookie sheet and brush tops with melted butter. Bake at 450. |
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